Costa Rica - An Ecological Adventure
Hiking, Rappelling, and Relaxing at Selva Bananito Lodge
Sep 23, 2009
Voted one of the top ten ecolodges in the world by Outside magazine in 2003, and one of the top eight ecolodges in Costa Rica by Times Online (UK) in 2007, Selva Bananito reserve and lodge is a shining example of low ecological impact, high reward vacationing, The reserve, around 3000 acres, was purchased in 1973 by Rudi Stein for farming and wood exploitation. However, in 1994 the Stein family decided to declare two thirds of the land as a private biological reserve and they built the lodge as an alternative source of income.
Getting to Selva Bananito
The reserve is in the Limon province on the Atlantic side of Costa Rica; a three and a half hour drive from the capital, San Jose. For the last part of the journey you transfer to four-wheel drive vehicles as the best way to navigate the tracks and cross the river beds leading to the lodge. The tracks get narrower, bumpier, and muddier, but the views of the rain forest, the rivers, and the colorful houses of the local population make the journey interesting and exciting.
Costa Rica Lodge "Selva Bananito"
The lodge itself comprises eleven cabins, a dining hall, a stable and an administrative office. The buildings are constructed using wood from the rain forest that had been left as waste from previous logging operations. The cabins are spacious with tiled floors and high ceilings. A wide balcony with two colorful locally woven hammocks looks out over the rain forest. Each cabin has a bathroom with shower. There is no electricity supply to the cabins or the dining hall and kitchen; solar panels heat the water for the showers and wash basins during the day. Propane gas is used for cooking and lighting.
The lodge is surrounded by the bright colors and heady perfume of local flowers. The sounds are of the rain forest; birds, animals and insects create a constant background song of nature.
Hiking and Rappelling
The lodge offers many activities supervised by local experienced guides. Chief among them is hiking in the rain forest. There are several to choose from, and during the author's stay, all guests chose to do the "long hike". This is an eight-hour trek starting off along the bed of a shallow, and very cold, river. Soon our guides were pointing out wildlife - tiny red frogs about as big as a thumbnail, bright yellow poisonous snakes, hummingbird nets with eggs, leaf-cutter ants marching across the trail. The guides provided a hot mid-day meal from their backpacks. The highlight of the day was a rappel down and inside a fast flowing waterfall. Not a long distance but enough for all to feel very intrepid.
On arrival back at the lodge, there was a rush to be first in the showers to make sure that hot water as available.
Horse-Riding and Tree Climbing
The lodge has several horses for the guests to experience riding around the farm and in the rain forest. All the horses are docile and perfect for the first-time rider, although unexciting for those with more experience. The horses are sure-footed on the muddy trails in the forest, letting the rider look around and experience the sights from a new vantage point, instead of constantly looking down to make sure that the next step was a safe one.
The farm also is home to giant 'broccoli' trees that have been rigged with ropes for climbing using hanesses and ascenders. The guides take care to explain the climbing process and the reward is an unparalleled view of the rain forest from the canopy.
Relaxing
Each evening, the guests gather in the dining hall for dinner. Local fare, cooked and served by friendly local staff, after a long and strenuous day spent hiking or riding is always a treat. The Costa Rican people, known as "Tico's", are immensely proud of their country and are always willing to sing its praises. "Pura vida", meaning pure life, is their motto. After dinner, sitting and talking quietly by the soft light of a gas lamp, listening to the forest noises, it is easy to understand why.
At he end of the evening, when guests retire to their cabins, a wonderful sight awaits the new visitor. When the gas lamp is extinguished, and eyes become accustomed to the dark, the sky is revealed as a blanket of stars. The stars seem to reach down right into the forest. Slowly, realization dawns - in the trees are countless numbers of fireflies. There are so many stars, and so many fireflies, that there is no visible separation between the sky and the trees. The sky and the land have become one enormous dome of lights. A remarkable and unforgettable sight.
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